While I was looking (preliminarily, on the Internet) for information on appropriate brooch designs to wear with my mantion, I came across yet another book coming out this year--this time one that may well address that specific issue:
Adams, Noel and Chris Entwhistle (eds.) Intelligible Beauty: Recent Research on Byzantine Jewellery. British Museum Press (December 31, 2009). ISBN: 086159178X. ISBN-13: 978-0861591787.
This one is expensive ($70 USD on Amazon.com) but may be a book I'll want to try to track down in a year or so.