Smith, Michèle Mariette Hayeur (2003) A social analysis of Viking jewellery from Iceland. PhD thesis, University of Glasgow.The page where I found the reference included a free download link to the thesis in PDF form. I've barely begun to look through it, but it seems like an impressive collection of information, not just about jewelry in Viking Iceland, but about the entire corpus of Viking jewelry finds, both male and female, complete with discussion of the history of research on this subject and a full bibliography. I commend this work to the attention of any of my readers with an active interest in the Viking period.
By coincidence, after I found Ms. Smith's thesis, I read a post on one of the costume-related lists I follow, where list member Beth Mathey provided a citation to a later work by Ms. Smith on the same general topic:
Michèle Hayeur Smith. Draupnir's sweat and Mardöll's tears : an archaeology of jewellery, gender and identity in Viking age Iceland. (BAR–S1276) 2004. ISBN 1841713767.Beth also provided the following cites, which I pass along for the truly interested:
Marianne Eldorhagen. Ovale spenner i Nord-Norge og Trøndelag - stil og symbolisme i sosial sammenheng. 2001. unpublished PhD dissertation on oval brooches from Viking Norway.
Zanchi, Anna. Dress in the 'lslendingaso gur' and 'lslendingapættir'. University College London, 2007. EThOs ID: 488663 *
* (See this post of mine on how to access theses from the EThOs database. I checked, and the EThOs site said that this thesis is not yet digitized and will be ready for download in about 30 days.)