Showing posts with label medieval clothing and textiles. Show all posts
Showing posts with label medieval clothing and textiles. Show all posts

Thursday, September 2, 2021

Tidbits from NESAT XIV

Didn't make it to NESAT (North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles) XIV a few weeks ago, in mid August?  Me either.  But today (now that the symposium is over), I found some wonderful summaries, and photographs, of presentations from NESAT XIV on the symposium's Instagram account.  The list of posters featured on the Instagram account may be found on the NESAT XIV website here, and the NESAT XIV Instagram account is here.

Among the most fascinating presentations on the Instagram account are those about an early medieval textile finds in Finland.  The find, at Ravattula, is going to be the subject of a head-to-toe reconstruction project, starting with weaving the wool for the garments as well as making the jewelry and characteristic bronze spiral clothing decoration.  It dates to approximately 1200 CE.  One of the Instagram posts features grave find diagrams as well as photographs of the Ravattula textile and jewelry finds, including woven garters.  I cannot wait to see the results of the reconstruction project!  

Also fascinating to those of us interested in early costume is a post about the braided armband found in Dartmoor, United Kingdom, dating to about 1730-1600 BCE.  This armband is now believed to have been made by fingerloop braiding, though the horsehair used was stiff and springy enough that the strands needed to be manipulated with "handles" of yarn instead of directly by the fingers.  A reconstruction apparently was made using fingerloop braiding techniques.  (Andy M. Jones published a book in 2017 about the Dartmoor find called Preserved in the Peat which is available, and currently on sale, from its publisher Oxbow Books.)

It will be several years before the printed NESAT XIV volume is published, but these Instagram posts are a wonderful taste of what to expect from that volume.

Saturday, March 23, 2013

A Little Detour Into Glove History

Recently, someone inquired on Yahoo's Norsefolk_2 list whether the Vikings were known to have worn gloves.

Someone on the Yahoo nalbinding list attempted to answer the question by  reporting that Thor Ewing, in his book Viking Clothing, that "the usual gloves found in Viking contexts had two 'fingers'"....

Although at least one saga refers to "catskin" gloves, I know of no Viking age finds of gloves or glove parts, so I eagerly went to my bookshelf to discover what Ewing's sources for such a statement might be. It turns out that the index of Viking Clothing contains only two references to "gloves." One merely mentions the "catskin glove" saga reference (from Eiríks saga Rauđa). The other passage is short, and it is my belief from its contents that the poster on the nalbinding list was simply paraphrasing it. Ewing's statement, which begins with useful references to gloves in the sagas, reads:
The term glófi is probably a late borrowing from Old English, and is used for a new style of costly decorated glove, similar to a medieval bishop's glove.  In Gull-Þhóris saga ch. 3, glófar enhance the description of a richly dressed man, while gold-adorned glófar occur in Njáls saga ch. 31, as well as in the saga romances Bósa saga ok Herrauđs (ch. 12) and Ӧrvar-Odds saga (ch. 19).  Archaeological evidence suggests that most ordinary gloves will have had just two finger compartments, each for two fingers, but the glófi clearly had four separate fingers, and in Bósa saga ok Herrauđs, Bósi even plays harp wearing glófar. (Viking Clothing, p. 122) (boldface emphasis mine).
This paragraph ends Ewing's two-paragraph section on Viking gloves (and the first paragraph consists primarily of additional saga references and discussion of words used in the sagas that may or may not refer to gloves). Conspicuous by its absence is any discussion of archaeological finds, or even "archaeological evidence" for Viking gloves, let alone of evidence that such gloves likely had only two finger compartments.

Inspired by frustration, I did a little digging for Viking glove finds on the Internet. I didn't find any. But I have found a very interesting website that has collected links to surviving medieval European gloves as well as medieval art depicting gloves. The page, which mostly shows the four-fingered type of glove, may be found here. One of the more interesting links is to this blog, which displays a photograph of the blogger's own reproduction of a medieval work glove with only two finger compartments and references the relevant miniature in the Luttrell Psalter. The blogger has her own collection of links to images of gloves and pictures of surviving gloves, which may be found here, but none of those gloves are Scandinavian, let alone attributable to the Viking age. Karen Larsdatter's medieval artifacts page also lacks any Viking era gloves, though she does have links to a number of photographs on the Historiska Museet's website showing a surprising number of leather mittens from Sweden that are dated to the medieval period. All of these leather handwear items have only a single compartment for all four fingers and are clearly mittens.

All of this is a useful warning not to take offhand remarks even in scholarly sources as evidence of hard facts.  But it also makes me wonder what "archaeological evidence" Mr. Ewing was thinking about when he wrote the language I quoted above.  If any of my readers have any information on this subject, please let me know, and I will share it here.  I have to admit that I find it hard to believe that Viking era Scandinavians did not use protective handwear, and the glove with two finger compartments (which I've also seen referred to as a "three-fingered mitten" seems like a plausible candidate.

Monday, May 31, 2010

Medieval Clothing and Textiles 6

This weekend, I finally yielded to temptation and purchased a copy of Medieval Clothing and Textiles 6, a peer-reviewed annual journal that is published by Boydell and Brewer and is edited by Robin Netherton and Gale Owen-Crocker. MC and T has always contained solidly researched articles with interesting content, but this year's issue was more interesting than usual for me personally.  It contains, among other things, an article discussing the latest research and reconstructions based upon clothing finds in Latvia between the 7th and 13th centuries CE, an article about tablet-woven Carolingian bands, and an article about the use of embroidery to repair medieval manuscripts.

I am really looking forward to reading this issue.  I expect to blog about at least one or two of the articles in this fascinating volume.

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Medieval Clothing and Textiles 6

Because it's nearly the end of the year, I've been attempting to edit my list of new books to add books planned for publication in 2010. Over at the Boydell & Brewer site, I took a look at the upcoming sixth volume of Medieval Clothing and Textiles, the annual journal edited by Robin Netherton and Gale Owen-Crocker. The table of contents for Volume 6 contains several essays that tempt me personally, but I'll just replicate the proposed table of contents here and readers can judge for themselves.
1. Archaeological Dress and Textiles in Latvia from the Seventh to Thirteenth Centuries: Research, Results, and Reconstructions. Hilary Davidson and Ieva Pigozne.

2. Weaving Words in Silk: Women and Inscribed Bands in the Carolingian World. Valerie Garver.

3. Stitches, Sutures, and Seams: "Embroidered" Parchment Repairs in Medieval Manuscripts. Christine Sciacca.

4. Dressing Up the Nuns: The Lingua Ignota and Hildegard of Bingen's Clothing. Sarah L. Higley.

5. Flax and Linen in Walter of Bibbesworth's Thirteenth-Century French Treatise for English Housewives. William Sayers.

6.The London Mercers' Company, London Textual Culture, and John Gower's Mirour de l'Omme. Roger A. Ladd.

7.Fripperers and the Used Clothing Trade in Late Medieval London. Kate Kelsey Staples.

8. Donations from the Body for the Soul: Apparel, Devotion, and Status in Late Medieval Strasbourg. Charlotte A. Stanford.

9. Recent Books of Interest.

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Medieval Clothing and Textiles 5

One book that I have forgotten to mention in my last few posts about new books is Volume 5 of Medieval Clothing and Textiles, which has recently been released.

Medieval Clothing and Textiles is an annual journal edited by Robin Netherton and Gale Owen-Crocker featuring scholarly articles on various aspects of medieval costume and textiles and book reviews of new books covering similar subjects. Each year's volume is published as a hardcover volume by Boydell and Brewer in the UK.

Because MC&T includes within its scope topics involving the entire European Middle Ages, some volumes are likely to be of greater interest to some researchers and costumers than others. However, I have found that the articles in MC&T that do interest me are very interesting indeed. The Boydell & Brewer site has an articles list for each of the volumes; I would recommend that any costumer interested in the subject listed consider obtaining a copy of the relevant volume, either by purchase or inter-library loan.