Showing posts with label sewing box. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sewing box. Show all posts

Sunday, July 21, 2013

Research on Sewing Kits

A few years ago, inspired by some research done by pearl, I assembled a plausible Viking-era sewing box and wrote about it here.

A few days ago, I was thinking about sewing kits (i.e., assemblages of sewing equipment kept in a special container) again. This time, it occurred to me that there are pages about period sewing equipment other than pearl's sewing box project (which can be found here) and it might be a public service for me to list some of them.

For example, this site features research by Jennifer Baker, including photographs of period textile tools, for the late Anglo-Saxon period. Here, someone whose SCA persona name is Coblaith Muimnech has written about assembling inexpensive medieval sewing kits to use as gifts.

For anyone who wants to assemble their own sewing kit and document it from scratch, Karen Larsdatter provides links to a wide range of images of sewing and photographs of actual surviving Early Period sewing kits and sewing equipment here.  Over here, there is a sketch and other information about a 7th century C.E. Anglo-Saxon box that might also have been used as a sewing kit.

It's important to remember that sewing kits come in all shapes and sizes, and probably always have done so.  For example, Penelope Walton Rogers notes, in her book Cloth And Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon England, AD 450-700* that it's possible to deduce that women in early Anglo-Saxon England often wore soft bags at their waists from the number of archaeological finds of small lumps of sewing materials--needles, balls of thread, etc.--found close to the skeleton between waist and thigh level:
Clusters of objects are often found between the waist and thigh in women's graves, generally on the left-hand side, and sometimes as low as the knee or calf. These were probably suspended from the belt, either individually or in a bag, and are therefore termed 'girdle groups' or 'purse groups'. ... The bags themselves may be represented by ivory rings, 100-150 mm across, which formed a frame for the bag mouth; or by a variety of iron and copper-alloy rings, which may be from smaller, sock-like bags. Other metal rings, however, are clearly for the suspension of objects such as keys, while further examples seem to be part of the general bric-a-brac kept in the bag. This bric-a-brac includes broken brooches, clews of thread, textile hand-tools, beads, amulets, glass cullet, and all sorts of objets trouvés.
Page 134 (internal citations omitted). So at least in early Anglo-Saxon England, "workbags" are period.  Some of these bags apparently had rings to control the opening.  I think such bags worked somewhat like this kind of medieval bag design.

After the Middle Ages, intact and partially intact sewing kits are more likely to be found.  Eighteenth-century kits were likely to be assembled in a fabric pouch or wallet, as with the example of a reenactor's kit and research here. Such kits were called "housewives" or some variation of that word and were still being made and used as of the American Civil War; a photograph of a surviving housewife may be found here. World War II servicemen in the Canadian army received a strikingly similar kit, a picture of an original appears here.

How sewing tools were kept during a particular period doesn't really tell us much about the history of clothing, but it does tell us much about how sewing was regarded, how valuable the tools were, and who was doing it.  In later periods, for example, military men were issued sewing kits because it was not practical for them to have someone else repair their clothing in the field so they needed to be able to conveniently carry sewing tools with themselves.  One wonders why Anglo-Saxon women carried their textile tools with them, and whether Viking women did keep thread and sewing tools that could not easily be hung from brooches in special bags, baskets, or boxes.  It would be hard to believe that they did not, but until a seamstress's equivalent of the Mastermyr box is found, we won't know for sure.

EDIT: (7/21/2013) I was wrong about the absence of Viking sewing box finds. I just learned from Carolyn Priest-Dorman that there are archaeological finds of Viking era sewing boxes. At least one, a wooden box with iron bands, was found in the Viking era cemetery in Cumwhitton, Cumbria in England. A copy of the journal in which an illustrated article about the box was published may be downloaded here.



* I looked up Cloth and Clothing in Anglo-Saxon England on Amazon to confirm that I'd gotten the title right before tracking down my copy to reproduce the quote. When I did so I learned, to my sorrow, that copies are selling on Amazon Marketplace at prices ranging from $325.00 USD to $900.00 USD. Apparently, Cloth and Clothing in Anglo-Saxon England is already out of print; I paid about $35.00 USD for my copy when it first came out in 2007. Sigh.

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Viking Sewing Box--Bobbin Win!


The items depicted in the accompanying picture are two of the "wooden" floss bobbins I ordered on EBay for my Viking sewing box. I've put the word "wooden" in quotation marks because the bobbins aren't really made of wood; they appear to be made from a thick fiberboard with a fake wood-grain finish applied to one side. Still, from a little distance they look convincing enough.

I was amused to discover today, from a website of sewing tools compiled by Karen Larsdatter, that the shape of my EBay floss bobbins closely resembles a find from Birka that is now in the Historiska Museet in Stockholm. A second object found at Birka is more like the bobbin shape Coblaith replicated in making her sewing box, as Coblaith demonstrated on her website.

No, we can't prove the Birka objects were used for holding thread, but the resemblance to the EBay bobbins is interesting.

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Wish List of Items for Viking Sewing Box

* A spare shuttle (I like the kind that double as beaters) for tablet weaving. My current one is attached to a half-finished project that I really should complete sometime. :-)

* Period-style snips for cutting thread. (on back order!)

* Period-style shears for cutting fabric. (I'm not sure whether Historic Enterprises' 4-inch-long spring shears are adequate for that purpose, but they would at least fit into my box).

* A needlecase.

* Possibly, a ring thimble. Turns out Historic Enterprises makes a 14th century design that's probably little different from any available in the Viking Age for only $5.95 USD. (This item remains only a "possibly" because I'm still not convinced that Viking women used thimbles, let alone metal ring-type thimbles.)

While I was looking for period-style shears, I found this site by SCA member Coblaith Muimnech, describing how she assembled a medieval sewing kit for a gift exchange. Interestingly, the thread holders she documented and made are similar in form to the ones I just bought on EBay. That was very satisfying.

Viking sewing box!

Inspired by my friend pearl, I have started to accumulate my Viking-period sewing implements in one place to prepare a period-plausible sewing/craft "basket" or "box". (Although I know that Viking women wore some of their sewing implements, such as snips and needlecases, on their persons, a sewing basket or box would be a nice place to store them when I'm not wearing Viking garb, and some of the articles needed for sewing have not been shown to have been worn by Viking women). The items I do have, and that you see in the second photograph, include a whetstone, a piece of chalk (kept in a small leather pouch I made for it myself), a block of beeswax (ditto), a pointed bone pendant that can be used to open holes for eyelets or as a seam smoother, several nalbinding needles (including a small curved one carved from antler), two sets of wooden tablets for tablet weaving, some linen thread, and my existing collection of metal sewing needles.

The photos posted with this entry show the contents of my little kit to date, and the neat birchbark box I have just acquired to keep all of these items in. (I don't have a needlecase, yet.) Birchbark was certainly used for box making in Russia, and I think in Sweden too (though I don't know of any examples of Viking birchbark boxes offhand, birches certainly grow in Sweden). To replace the spool of thread I have in the box right now (seen at the left side in back of the photograph on the right) I have ordered some wooden "floss bobbins" to use for thread instead of the big modern-looking spool. I cannot document that wooden tablets were ever used for that purpose by the Vikings, but Viking women had to store thread on something, balls are kind of unhandy to use for sewing-quality thread as pearl pointed out, and small chips of wood with notches (which is what these "bobbins" are) would be easy to misinterpret in the archaeological record.

For those occasions when I want to be Anglo-Saxon, I can keep the essentials in a leather bag that I originally bought to house some of these items. :-)